[Books&] How France captivated the world’s foodies.

French cuisine is seen as the pinnacle of global cuisine. Blessed with a natural bounty and historically always a major power, it was inevitable that French cuisine would naturally develop.

The origin of the term ‘gastronomy’, which signifies gourmet food or fine dining, is also French. French gourmet Savarin once said, “Gastronomy is the totality of knowledge about eating.” The Michelin Guide, the world’s most famous travel guide and restaurant information collection, also originated in France.

The importance of gourmet food in the lives of the French cannot be overstated. Their formal meals can easily exceed three hours. A meal in France is not just about the act of eating; it includes the cultural representations that occur within it, such as conversation, manners, and formality.

A scene from the 2022 Paris International Food Fair held in Paris, France last October. Photo provided by the Korea Agro-Fisheries & Food Trade Corporation

The new book ‘The History of French Food Culture’ explores French cuisine, which is a national identity of France and the life of the French community, in a historical context. The author, a French humanities scholar and director of the Institute of Food Culture Studies, explores the symbolism and historicity of French food. In the introduction, the author emphasizes, “The domination of French cuisine in the world is not just because of the quality of the food, but also because of the stories about French food told by the French, who are excellent storytellers.”

The book traces the origins of French food culture back to Gaul, the name by which the current territory of France was known in the past. The Celts, the indigenous people of Gaul, were a meat-eating people, especially fond of raw meat. After being subjugated to Caesar’s Rome and the introduction of Roman culture, their food culture began to vary. They began to consume grains while roasting meat. With the departure of the Romans, Germanic Frankish culture was added, and as trade with the East became active, the cuisines of the world all gathered on French soil.

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As it entered the ‘Age of Bread’ in the Middle Ages, France formed its unique bread culture. France, where wheat cultivation was superior to other regions, developed a unique bread culture through its combination with Christian culture. The author explains, “The mill for making bread became another site where the power of the monastery and the feudal lord worked.”

As it passed through the Renaissance, food culture evolved for taste and individuality, not survival. The food culture of the French court, amidst strong royal power and abundance, developed tremendously. Champagne, cheese, and wine began to develop in earnest.

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As it entered the 19th century, French cuisine fully established itself as ‘high-end cuisine’. The development of society created high-end cuisine, and this high-end cuisine further accelerated modernization. The current French cuisine is almost no different from the French cuisine of the 19th century. The book concludes by emphasizing the protection and rediscovery of modern French food culture.

French cuisine, also a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage, is threatened by the industrialized food industry, globalization, and a surge in immigration. The author says, “The history of French food is not a single entity but layered.” The identity of French cuisine may be shaken, but considering the history of French cuisine, such change is natural. French cuisine will continue to evolve while maintaining its essence in novelty and fusion. $27.